Day Five (actual) Sun. Oct. 8th: Renei-ji, Kitiyama Honmon-ji, Mt. Minobu

We rose a bit earlier today; service at 7:00 in the Rev.’s room, and then downstairs for a special vegetarian Japanese breakfast. It was pretty good overall; there was a strange sort of custard that had a fish cake in the bottom, but the rest was vegetarian. Many Japanese seem to think fish is a vegetable somehow (kidding!). Actually, I think it is just so common, so part of everything every day, that they honestly don’t notice it.

Our bus and guide showed up at 9:00, and we boarded, headed for Renei-ji in Shizuoka. The weather was gorgeous again. There was a great deal of traffic on the roads; later we found out that this was a holiday weekend, but at the time we didn’t know. To get from Kamakura to Shizuoka, one must cross the top of the Izu peninsula. We didn’t include Izu on the itinerary, because there isn’t a highway down the peninsula, and either train or boat would have added more problems. Anyway, we were on the road for quite a while because of traffic.

At one point, we were in the middle of what seemed to be a very expensive sports car rally. I have never seen so many Lamborghini’s, Maserati’s, Ferrari’s, Porsche’s, Jaguars and more at the same time. The traffic was just creeping along, and so we had some time to really enjoy these cars. I didn’t take pictures of them; will post some when I get some pictures from others.

We were basically passing south of Mt. Fuji at this time, and so there were quite a few opportunities to take pictures, as the day was very clear. There was only a very tiny dusting of snow around the edge of the crater at the top; and so the pictures are unusual.

Anyway, after some driving around, trying to figure out where we needed to be, we finally located Renei-ji. This temple is significant because of Nichiji Shonin. One of Nichiren’s Six Senior Disciples, Nichiji is revered today as the first overseas missionary in Nichiren Buddhism. In 1294, on Nichiren’s 13th memorial day, Nichiji climbed Mt. Minobu and bid farewell to the statue of Nichiren, reporting his determination to go abroad for missionary work. He left Renei-ji on New Year’s Day of 1295and headed northeast. He crossed to Hokkaido (not then part of Japan) and eventually to mainland China. He was lost to history until the 20th century, when some 18 temples of the Lotus Sutra were discovered in China and Korea. Artifacts were found that indicated many of these temples were founded by Nichiji.

We were later than expected (due to the traffic) and because it was Sunday, there was a memorial service going on. We did not meet the minister here, but we did get to view the main hall and the grounds. We were offered tea, and a chance to stamp our coats and books. It is not a huge temple, but it is nicely laid out and peaceful.

Then it was back to the bus, with a quick stop at a Family Mart for lunch stuff (lunch seems to be the forgotten meal in Japan, if I haven’t already said this). Then we got back on the road headed for Kitayama Honmon-ji. This route took us back east towards Mt. Fuji, and then northwards even closer. We finally reached Kitiyama Honmon-ji at round 3:30pm. This temple is significant because it is the location of Nikko Shonin’s grave, oriented towards Mt. Minobu where his master lay. Nikko lived here from approximately 1298 until he died in 1333.

We were met, and escorted to the reception hall; offered tea and cookies while some folks took care of stamping jackets and books. We talked with a minister who remembered Rev. Michael from a previous visit to another temple she had taken care of. We presented the people there with an English translation of their Japanese flyer about their temple. Rev. Michael had made these for us, but brought a number of copies to present to the temple itself as well.

Unfortunately there was a memorial service going on here as well, and so we were unable to visit the Hondo. The treasure house was also not open. There are a number of treasures here, including several of Nichiren’s original Omandalas, a statue of Nikko, some Nikko original Omandalas, and more.

We toured the grounds, and wended our way back through the (large) historical gravesite area. When we reached Nikko’s tomb, we stopped and offered the Jigage and Odaimoku. Nikko’s tomb is indeed oriented towards Mt. Minobu, just to the north and west of Mt. Fuji. There was a spectacular view of Mt. Fuji from the graveyard, and I think my picture came out well. We also saw the last three of the 7 cedar trees that Nikko planted to commemorate the Odaimoku (Na Mu Myo Ho Ren Ge Kyo). The other four were felled during a typhoon; we were not given the date this occurred.

Since we were already running late, it was time to get back on the bus. The roads up into the Minobu area are winding and narrow, and I for one would not want to drive them in the dark. You really get a sense of how remote this area must have been during Nichiren’s day; it is mountainous and steep, and heavily forested. We passed a large lake, and at one point there is a breathtaking view pf Mt. Fuji beyond the lake. I will need to photoshop the picture, as it was getting dark, but it is still spectacular.

We finally arrived at Mt. Minobu, and the gates to Kuon-ji. Our bo (lodging temple) perches on the side of a hill, and it was a struggle to get luggage out of the bus and into the bo. Once we had luggage placed into rooms, we met outside, and walked up to Nichiren’s Tomb. There are lights inside the gateway, and we used these to offer the Jigage. Then, as the moon was still full, we turned the lights off, and chanted Odaimoku before the Founder’s Tomb by moonlight. I cannot describe that feeling; many different emotions at once, but it is something I will never forget as long as I live. I do not have pictures from this evening, but there will be some of the Tomb area later on.

We returned to Hinosawa Bo to find dinner waiting. The food was completely vegetarian, and completely wonderful. There are a number of different lodging temples both within the temple grounds and in Minobu town, but I will recommend Hinosawa Bo without reservation, to anyone. After dinner, we had another opportunity to enjoy a Japanese soaking bath, and then finally prepared for bed. Morning service at Kuon-ji begins at 5:30am, and it takes 10-15 minutes to climb the hill from the bo to the main temple.

Day Four (actual) Sat. Oct. 7th: Myohon-ji, Street Preaching Monument, Ankokuron-ji

This morning the weather is clear, and promises to be a beautiful day. We met for morning service, as usual in Rev. Michael’s room at 7:30. Then another “American Breakfast” at 8:00. Tomorrow they promise us a vegetarian Japanese breakfast, so that should be interesting.

Afterwards we headed down to Hase station, for the train ride into Kamakura proper, debarking at Kamakura station. From here it is half an hour’s walk to Myohon-ji. Myohon-ji is actually the oldest Nichiren temple in Kamakura. The Soshido, or Founder’s Hall, is another Japanese national treasure. It is very beautiful, and quite old. We were met by two ministers and a shami; they let us in and they proceeded to lead service for us. Afterwards the Resident Minister told us some of the history of his temple, and he said that hearing the Odaimoku returning all the way from North America made him very happy. The altar here has a statue of Nichiren carved by Nippo some 20 years after Nichiren’s passing.

This temple is associated with the Yoritomo and Hiki families; they were feuding before Nichiren was born (politics again). The entire Hiki family was wiped out, except for one baby, Yoshimoto. He served Emperor Juntoku, during his exile to Sado Island from 1221-1242. After the Emperor died, Yoshimoto returned to Kamakura, where he met Nichiren preaching on street corners. Yoshimoto became Nichiren’s disciple, even though he was 21 years older. When Nichiren was pardoned after the Izu exile, he returned to Kamakura and Yoshimoto provided his residence to Nichiren for use as a lecture hall.

Nichiren actually instructed Yoshimoto to establish the temple to pray for the souls of his family. Construction of the temple was completed fifty-some years after they were killed. On the grounds there is a small shrine, near a pool. This is where Wakasa Hiki, the Shogun’s wife committed suicide when she learned her family was almost all killed. We chanted three Odaimoku here, before heading back to the street.

Our next stop was about 20 minutes away by foot. We found ourselves on a narrow street in front of a small yard. There are a number of monuments inside, and a sort of signpost near the fence. The sign is in both Japanese and English; a photo is included. This small yard and monuments dedicate the site of Nichiren’s street preaching in Kamakura.

We had another “Japanese photo encounter” here. Some people passing by saw us and wanted to take pictures with some of us (especially the American clergy). This went on for several different shots before all were satisfied.

We then turned back down the street and walked another ways down to Ankokuron-ji. This temple is very interesting, as it is both the site of Nichiren’s hut at Matsubagayatsu which was burned by a mob in 1260, just 27 days after he submitted the Rissho Ankoku Ron to the Regent, as well as the site of the cave where the Rissho Ankoku Ron was written. We were met at the reception center by the Resident Minister. He wanted to personally escort us to see the important points of his temple. He brought us to the Hondo, where we chanted the jigage and Odaimoku, and offered incense. He graciously allowed us to take pictures. He then offered Rev. Michael and the two shami each a pair of zori. This was very helpful, as Myokei’s zori had been pretty much destroyed in the typhoon, and Rev. Michael’s were also in bad shape.

The minister then led us to another small shrine, which turned out to be the entrance to the Rissho Ankoku Ron cave. He led all of us into the cave, and then returned to the shrine and played the taiko so that we could all chant. The cave is quite small, about the size of the average US bedroom or so. We were told that the cave had collapsed in an earthquake about 80 years ago, and had been dug out and reinforced, which explained the concrete we saw. The feeling I got standing in that cave is hard to describe; it feels eerie and humdrum and important all at once, if that makes any sense at all. With only candles burning inside, you can get some sense of what it might have been like 750 years ago, but I don’t think any of us can really get it. The worldview is so different, it is extremely hard to imagine.

After the cave, the minister led us to a very steep and narrow stair ascending the hill. This leads up to another cave where Nichiren hid after his hut was burned. The legend has it that a white monkey came and woke Nichiren and led him to safety. There is supposedly a statue of the monkey in the cave. Unfortunately, we were only able to get part way up. We reached an overlook which gives onto a view of Mt. Fuji (our first this trip). Beyond that, the typhoon yesterday had done enough damage to the path that it wasn’t safe to continue, so we went back down.

The minister invited us to a semi-formal tea. His wife served us a wonderful offering of tea and sweets and he spoke to us regarding his views of Nichiren and how since the spirit of Nichiren lives in the Rissho Ankoku Ron, he feels that Ankokuron-ji is a very important place for everyone whether they know who Nichiren is or not. Finally he had another service to prepare for, and we made our goodbyes and left.

We made our way back towards the Kamakura station, and stopped by a small butsudan store we had passed earlier. The group split up at this point, with some of us taking excess stuff back to our hotel first, and others going on to more sights, and then meeting back up for visit to the Kamakura shopping street.

No visit to Kamakura would be complete without a stop at the Totoro store. If you are not familiar with Miyazawa’s animation work then this will mean nothing to you, but if you are, well……….The store carries all sorts of memorabilia from all of Miyazawa’s work, including My Neighbor Totoro, Kiki’s Delivery Service, Howl’s Moving Castle, Spirited Away, Princess Mononoke and more.

After all of this we stopped for dinner at an Italian restaurant (I know, but logic wasn’t part of the equation at that point). One reason is that most Italian restaurants will have vegetarian options, which many Japanese restaurants do not always offer.

All day, the weather has been stunningly beautiful, as if to make up for the typhoon. Walking back to our hotel, we just had to stop and take a few pictures. The view of the full moon rising above Kamakura Bay was just stunning. I was reminded of Nichiren’s saying “If you travel for 11 days but stop on the 12th, how can you admire the moon over the capital?” Now I know why that had such meaning for him; I have included a photo, but it doesn’t do the scene justice. I also added a photo of an interesting little sign in the tilework on the breakwater. Finally we returned to our rooms, and began packing for next morning when we will get back on the bus again.

Day Three (actual) Fri. Oct. 6th: Ryuko-ji, Shijozan Shugen-ji, Kosoku-ji

Typhoon! We didn’t really realize that we were conducting our pilgrimage during a typhoon until later………

We arose, met in Rev. Michael’s room for morning service, and then downstairs for “American Breakfast”. Interesting, since I don’t generally recall salad as part of breakfast, but what the heck? The bread was wonderful, and once they figured out that we were almost all vegetarian, so was the rest of the meal.

Then we got ready for our outing; umbrellas and raincoats and plastic bags over the drumheads. We walked from the hotel about a km or so to the Hase train station, and then took the train a few stops towards Enoshima to the station closest to Ryuko-ji, our first destination.

We marched, chanting and drumming, through the temple gate and up to the main hall. We went inside, sat down and offered the Jigage and Odaimoku. Then we visited the office, taking care of stamps, flyers and so on. There are images of all six of Nichiren’s disciples in the main hall here (this is not uncommon, but we hadn’t seen it before Ryuko-ji). Afterwards, we wandered around the grounds, taking pictures and trying not to get too soaked as it was really raining. There is a huge bell, but visitors are asked to ring it only once each, as it can be heard for miles. I am sure the temple’s neighbors get tired of it.

Ryuko-ji is located at the site of the old execution grounds at Tatsunokutchi beach. The site where Nichiren knelt is on the temple grounds, although the stone he knelt on has been moved inside onto the altar. It seems people were chipping pieces of it off and taking them home, so moving the stone was necessary to preserve it. My photo of the stone didn’t come out, but I do have an altar photo with the stone showing at the far left; will post better photos when I receive them. Close by is the cave where Nichiren was imprisoned until midnight. Today there is a statue of Nichiren seated placed within the cave. I got good photos of the cave. On the actual execution site stands a shrine to Myoken; since it was some sort of astral event that prevented Nichiren from being executed. As the Bodhisatva most closely associated with stars, especially the Big Dipper/North Star, it seems fitting. Unfortunately this shrine was locked, so we were not able to see inside.

Up the hill there is another 5-story pagoda, then a shrine to Shichimen, and another Peace Pagoda. The Peace Pagoda is said to not be in good repair, and along with the heavy rains, we decided not to make this trek. After using the facilities, we returned to the train station. We took another train back to Hase, and on the way had a photo session with several Japanese teenage girls. Will post those photos later, as I didn’t get them either.

After leaving the Hase station, we made our way through the rain and wind to Shijozan Shugen-ji. This is a small temple located on the grounds of what was once Shijo Kingo’s residence. The temple building dates back a couple of hundred years, but it is much later than Nichiren’s time, and nothing remains of the original structures. Unfortunately, Rev. Michael had been unable to contact anyone regarding our visit, and so the temple was not open. We chanted the Jigage and Odaimoku on the porch, and then returned to the street on our way to Kosoku-ji. If anything, it seemed to be raining even harder, and the temperature was dropping. The wind also continued to pick up.

Kosoku-ji is about another km or so down a couple of streets from the Hase station. It isn’t a huge temple, but it has been recently renovated and is very beautiful. The grounds are exquisite, and are taken care of by someone who obviously loves gardening. We met the resident minister, who gave us towels and brought us in to his main hall. We offered the Jigage and Odaimoku, and then took some pictures. Afterwards he collected coats and books for stamping, and we went to view the grounds. The storm was still continuing; and the wind was gusting even harder.

Kosoku-ji began as the private residence of Mitsunori Yadoya, one of the immediate retainers of Regent Hojo Tokiyori. Nichiren selected him to present the Rissho Ankoku Ron to the Regent in 1260. When Nichiren was exiled to Sado Island in 1271 after his near-beheading at Tatsunokuchi, his five disciples were imprisoned in a cave here at Mitsunori’s residence. Mitsunori treated them fairly well, and eventually was so impressed with Nichiro’s manner and loyalty towards Nichiren, that he took Nichiro’s place in the cave and allowed Nichiro to visit Nichiren on Sado Island. Mitsunori later converted to follow Nichiren, remodeled his residence into a temple, and asked Nichiro to be its first chief priest. The Temple name comes from the fact that Mitsunori can also be pronounced Kosoku in Chinese.

We trekked up the hill, along the path (and sometimes stairs) to the cave. This cave is much bigger than the one Nichiren was imprisoned in. It could conceivable house several people for months, although it certainly wouldn’t be pleasant. It was on the way back down the stairs that Lynda slipped and banged her shin. With all of the rain and wind, I am surprised now that we had so few problems. Anyway we all returned to the reception area of the temple, and collected coats and books. A taxi was called for Lynda, since her leg was somewhat swollen. I went with her back to the hotel to make sure she laid down with her leg up and iced it well. The others arrived back somewhat later on.

After this (about 1:30pm), we were on free time. There is much else to see in Kamakura; including the huge Buddha statue (Daibutsu) and Hase-kannon, a Kannon or Kwan Yin shrine. Some folks went off to visit some of these; others of us went in search of a hot lunch. We found a soba shop serving vegetarian fare not far from the Hase-kannon. After lunch, the group continued on, while I returned to the hotel to check on Lynda. She was feeling much better, and we went back out (by taxi) to the soba shop again so that she could eat. The rain had stopped for a time in the afternoon, but as dusk came on the storm picked up again.

The evening news led with the story of the typhoon. We had all realized it was stormy, but not that it was such a big deal. I think we lost three or four umbrellas to the storm, and we bought probably more raincoats and such than we could use. After all of this, everyone seemed ready to spend the evening in. Some of us met for coffee and desert later on in the lobby café, and we talked about all of our adventures so far.

Day Two (actual) Thurs. Oct. 5th: Seicho-ji, Komatsubara-zan Kyonin-ji, Nakayama Hokkekyo-ji

We rose well before daybreak, as we intended to greet the rising sun with Odaimoku from Asahi-gomori. We assembled outside the bo; the weather seemed damp after a rain, but it wasn’t raining then. Based on that and not remembering that early October is still the rainy season, we did not bring umbrellas or raincoats with us. In hindsight, we could probably have slept another 20 minutes or ½ hour, but we didn’t. Anyway, we began the walk down the path, past Dozen-bo’s shrine, and the hut of solitude. We formed up in two lines, began chanting the Odaimoku, and then the drumbeat; and then it was off down the path and up the stairs to the railed area in front of the statue atop Asahi-gomori. Since we were early, we still had a good while before dawn.

As we stood and waited, it began to sprinkle. After a bit it began to rain lightly. Then another group of pilgrims appeared, coming up the stairs. They had raincoats and umbrellas. As the rain continued to increase, the Japanese pilgrims shared their umbrellas with us, as Neil returned to the bo to pick up some more. When Neil returned, Rev. Michael decided that it was close enough to time, and we began chanting the Jigage accompanied by the fan drums. By the time we got down to reciting the Odaimoku, it was really pouring. We were all getting soaked, and trying to keep the drums sort of dry under the umbrellas. It was supposedly dawn by this time, but it was very hard to tell. After a few more minutes, Rev. Michael signaled the close of chanting, and we bailed out. The Japanese group had already left by this time.

I must apologize again here, as I did not take any pictures during this whole escapade. Others of our group did, and when I receive those photos, I will add a few in to the gallery for this entry.

We got back to the bo completely soaked. We left the drums on the table, set so that the heads could dry. The caretakers were very nice in allowing us to use the laundry facilities at the bo to dry the clothing that had been soaked. By the time we got things into the dryers, it was time for breakfast.

The kitchen folks at the bo outdid themselves again. Breakfast was, if possible, even better than dinner. I did get a picture of this one……

Afterwards, we collected now-dry clothes, and repacked. It was almost time to board our bus again, to head out on our trek towards Komatsubara, and another site of historical significance on Nichiren’s journey. We met our guide and bus driver, who we found out had stayed overnight in town, and go back on the road.

Komatsubarazan Kyonin-ji is about 45 minutes by road from Seicho-ji. This is a very old temple; the hondo is original, dating to 1281. It was founded by Nichiryu, the son of Kudo Yoshitaka. Yoshitaka was killed trying to protect Nichiren during the attack by Tojo Kagenobu in November of 1264. The carvings in and around this temple are exquisite; there are also some famous paintings of the attack on Nichiren. The treasure house contains Nichiren’s prayer beads from this time, and the robe of Kyonin-bo, a disciple who was slain during the attack. We did not see the treasure house here, but we did sit and have tea with the minister’s wife, while he took care of stamping books and coats. Makiko-san, our guide, learned some more Japanese history here. It was interesting, as she was struggling with the Buddhist part of the vocabulary, while we already knew those words and concepts. What we needed translated was the standard Japanese in between the Buddhist terminology. Eventually she figured out to look to us for the English translations of the Buddhist terms, and things worked out quite well. There is also another 800 year old cedar tree on the grounds of this temple, but it isn’t as majestic as the one at Seicho-ji.

After tea, we walked the grounds a bit and took photos; then it was time to get back on the bus and head towards Hokkekyo-ji. We hit another rest stop for lunchy sorts of things; lunch in Japan seems to be the forgotten meal that gets left out of planning and so on. The bus dropped us off at an intersection a few blocks from the main gate of the temple. There are no main roads with direct access to the temple grounds. We walked by the first butsudan store of the trip on the way up the hill to the gate.

At the gate we formed up and marched in chanting the Odaimoku to the taiko drums. Hokkekyo-ji has quite a large temple grounds; probably one of the three biggest that we visited. This temple was founded as two separate temples, by Toki Jonin and Ohta Jomyo. Their residences were close by each other, and eventually the two temples were combined. Hokkekyo-ji houses more of Nichiren’s original writings than any other single location, thanks to Toki Jonin. There is also a Kishimojin Hall with a statue of Kishimojin carved by Nichiren.

We first took a look at the Soshi-do, or Founder’s Hall. We were able to get stamps there, as well as other trinkets. Then we formed up again, and marched up to the treasure house while chanting. On the way we passed the Aragyo-do, where the 100-day practice for ministers is conducted every year. We took a couple of group photos outside the treasure house. Then we walked back, to visit some of the other buildings, especially the Kishimojin-do. There was another stamp available for the Kishimojin hall at the reception office and so we got another set there, for either coats or books. We were waiting for a service in the Kishimojin-do itself to finish, so that we could view the hall, when it did conclude, we were met by a minister who took us in and told us about the history of the two temples and many other things of interest regarding Hokkekyo-ji.

He took us back across the walkways to the Soshi-do, and gave us the history of that building; it was originally Ohta Jomyo’s residence, and was recently rebuilt. The reconstruction took over 10 years and concluded on the 700th anniversary of Ohta Jomyo’s passing. It has been designated a Japanese cultural treasure. He then took us out the back of the Soshi-do and pointed out the Hokke-do, which is the oldest building on the grounds, and was originally Toki Jonin’s residence. As we returned to the Kishimojin-do, we were told more about the treasure house and its contents.

Hokkekyo-ji is also home to a famous five-storied pagoda, built in 1622, which is another Japanese national treasure. There is a large Buddha statue as well as a statue of Nichiren. Another interesting thing at Hokkekyo-ji is a shrine to Kannon, specifically for protection while driving. There is even a station where you can get a blessing placed on your car.

We finally concluded our tour at around 3:00pm, just as it was beginning to rain. This was a bit later than our original schedule had called for, and so we hastened back down the hill, placing a call to the bus driver to pick us up. After we reboarded the bus, we set off for Kamakura, the site of tomorrow’s next adventure. We stopped at another rest stop on the way; this one was unique in that the ramp was a giant 3 or 4-level spiral that functioned sort of as a roundabout; very different but it seemed to work well.

We finally made it to Kamakura, and the Kamakura Park Inn, where we would spend the next to days visiting more sites of historic significance in Nichiren’s life. Here we released our bus, and said goodbye to our guide Makiko-san; we had become good friends in a short time, and we would miss her.

Arriving at Seicho-ji, we debarked the bus, bringing luggage and sundries into the lodging temple where we would spend the night. The rooms were set up and ready for us; Seicho-ji is also famous for its “temple cuisine”; a vegetarian version of Japanese food typical at Buddhist monasteries. We were to be very pleasantly surprised at the quality and presentation of the meals at Seicho-ji’s bo.

After getting our luggage settled, we met back downstairs for a walking tour of the temple grounds. There are many fascinating things here. There are two very old trees; one is an 800 year old camphor tree, and then there is a 1000 year old cedar tree that is absolutely huge.

We began with the temple gate, the Founders Hall (Soshi-do) and Image Hall (Miei-do). As Seicho-ji only became a Nichiren temple in 1949, there is much of its earlier roots as first a Tendai, and then a Shingon temple. The Image Hall has enshrined an image of Kokuzo-bosatsu (Bodhisatva Space Treasury). This is the Bodhisatva that Nichiren prayed to in order to become the wisest man in Japan. It is not the actual image that was enshrined during Nichiren’s day, however. In between the Image Hall and the Founder’s Hall is located the little protected stand of “bloody bamboo”. According to legend, Nichiren fasted and prayed before the Kokuzo image for 20 (or 21) days. When he finally rose from his devotions, after receiving the jewel of wisdom from Kokuzo, he left the hall, and vomited blood. Ever afterwards, this stand of bamboo has had red highlights (very rare) and at certain times of the year becomes quite red.

The Founder’s Hall has been recently updated to protect it from frequent earthquakes; the design is quite unique. The whole thing rides on a pedestal anchored to the bedrock; allowing the building to shift without damage during an earthquake. The interior is spacious and well appointed. This is the hall where new shami (novice ministers) take their vows before Nichiren, as he himself once did at this very temple. We returned back through the image hall, and stopped at the office, getting stamps, and sundry other items. There was a quite unique very large fan drum here, with a full Omandala image inscribed on it, alongside a statue of Hotei and a beautiful framed Omandala image as well.

Outside, we passed the old bell tower, and the 800 year old camphor tree. Unfortunately the treasure house was under renovation, and so we were not able to visit that. Then we walked back into the main temple square, and across towards the 1000 year old cedar tree (a protected Japanese monument). Just past this tree is the memorial site where Dozen-bo’s ashes are interred. Seeing this site, and how many incense offerings seem to be regularly left here, it made me think. I believe that Dozen-bo would not have been noted or remembered by history, were it not for his pupil Nichiren. Could the fact that Dozen-bo is remembered to this day be part of Nichiren’s repayment of his debt of gratitude?

A little ways down the path past Dozen-bo’s memorial, there is a steep hillside, and a small well-house at the bottom. It isn’t used now, but that was the main water source for the temple for centuries. A bit farther than that is the small hut of solitude, where Nichiren meditated alone for the week before he chanted the Odaimoku to the rising sun on April 28th, 1253. Another 100 meters brings you to the steps up to the hilltop of Asahi-gamori (piney woods, I believe). There is a statue of Nichiren up there, facing the rising sun. Tomorrow we will welcome the dawn as Nichiren did, although it is October and not April. Unfortunately I have no photos of Asahi-gamori as yet. Will post as soon as I receive them.

Past the steps, one comes to the drive leading to the Peace Pagoda and Nipponzon Myohoji temple. We walked down, and spent a few minutes looking around. We decided to circumambulate the pagoda, while chanting (the usual method of observance here). We did not visit the temple. Afterwards we retraced our steps back towards the bo. We asked, and were allowed to use the bo’s hondo to offer evening service.

There was still a bit of time before dinner; some folks went up to their rooms, others went back outside for some more sightseeing. A couple of people climbed the hill in back of the Image Hall up to the Myoken shrine. We were told this path was somewhat slippery with recent rains, and that there were leeches in the area. Eric proved this last, as we found out after dinner.

Dinner was wonderful! Seicho-ji’s renowned kitchens deserve their fame. Sorry, I only took a picture of breakfast though. After dinner it was time for Japanese baths; a new experience for most of us. One gets clean first, sitting on a small stool in front of a low faucet and counter. After you are clean then comes the soaking bath. The water is hot enough that you prune up within five minutes or so, and are bright red after ten. Sure helps with legs and feet sore from walking and climbing more than we are used to, though. I will have to try and figure out how to install one at home.

After baths, we headed for bed, as most of us still had some jet lag. Getting ready for bed, Eric discovered his little friend, the leech; between two of his toes. He got it to let go, and then we encouraged it into a plastic bag, and found it a new home outside the bo. Nobody was interested in volunteering to feed it its next meal for some reason. And then to bed, which in the bo means futon spread out on the floor.

After another couple of hours, we arrived at Tanjo-ji. This temple is dedicated to Nichiren’s birthplace. It was originally located where he was born, but after being wiped out by tsunami the second time, it was decided to relocate it on the shore side of the mountain, instead of the sea side. There is quite a bit of interesting history here. They have a stupa containing thousands of copies of the jigage that believers made in honor of the 750th anniversary of the proclamation of the Odaimoku in 2003. The hondo has ceiling tiles depicting many different kinds of mandarava flowers as told in the sutra.

Tanjo-ji also has the largest single ceramic tile piece in the world as its roof-peak tile. It is listed in the Guinness book for this. They also have a lovely koi pond, and a new bo (lodging temple). Another thing we were shown (which seemed to be eye-opening to our guide as well) was an audience room for the Meiji Emperor, including one of only two portraits in existence of him as a young man. There is also a famous statue of Nichiren as a boy on the temple grounds.

We got stamps for our pilgrim coats or books, and bought a souvenir or three; then we walked down a ways to a very nice soba shop for lunch. Then it was back to the bus for the short ride around to Seicho-ji. On the way we saw a view of the Peace Pagoda from the seashore drive.

Please see the Pilgrimage Diary: Tanjo-ji Gallery for photos which accompany this entry.

Pilgrimage Diary (abbreviated version)

Preface:

Monday & Tuesday, Oct. 2nd & 3rd: Airports, Marroad Narita International Hotel

Flew from Houston to Dallas, then boarded 777 for Tokyo Narita Airport. 777s seem to sway from side to side rather than up and down; kinda weird. There is enough legroom though, better than the smaller planes. Had trouble sleeping, in between crying babies and two Chinese women who needed to have hour-long conversations at the top of their lungs while standing in the aisle next to our seats.

Lines at customs were long; several flights landed at once. George (Shami Ryusho) met us after customs, and took the Houston group to the Hotel. We were several hours ahead of the group from Portland, so we had an opportunity to check in and take a short rest before the other group arrived.

We had a quick meeting in Rev. Michael’s room; itineraries and information were passed out, and schedules for the next couple of days were agreed to. Some of us went down to the restaurant for dinner, and others bought snacks from the little convenience store (conbini in Japanese terminology).

Day One (actual) Wed. Oct. 4th: Tanjo-ji, Seicho-ji

Breakfast at 6:00am, then service at 7:30 in Rev. Michael’s room. Everyone is obviously eager, as we were all downstairs early for the bus at 9:00am. Our bus was very nice; better than we had been led to expect. We met our guide, Ms. Makiko Horio; a very nice young lady who turned out to be very helpful.

Please see the Pilgrimage diary: Beginnings Gallery for photos which accompany this blog. Apologies, I am still learning how this works, so the first gallery is out of order...........

The ride started out relatively flat (around Narita). We soon had our first or several experiences with Japanese rest stops. There is nothing like these that I have seen in the US; huge (and CLEAN!) restroom facilities, long rows of vending machines, and then restaurants and convenience stores. Vending machines in Japan are like nowhere else I have been either. You can get hot cooked food from vending machines here. One can easily make a decent meal out of what is offered at places like these. Beer is often available in vending machines as well, although not at highway rest stops. There are also rows of recycling bins available at rest stops, and many other places. Plastics, metals, and combustibles are all separated at the bins.

Back on the road, and soon we were off the freeway and onto a local highway going down towards Kominato and Tanjo-ji. The terrain is increasingly mountainous. It is one thing to understand that Nichiren pretty much walked everywhere he went, and another thing completely when you see the terrain and how mountainous it is. Thinking about walking those hills and mountains (in geta, no less), and having to ford rivers and so on, puts an entirely new perspective on the entire concept.